NEW IN NAGALAND

Once upon a time, there were head-hunters. Only presence we found in April 2016 were two skulls perched on bamboo shafts on display at the National Ethnographical Museum in Dimapur, the commercial capital of Nagaland. The exhibits highlight the dresses, crafts and lifestyle of the sixteen tribes that inhabit the state in the north-east of India – a rich cultural mosaic of the rich heritage of the Nagas. They are by race of Mongoloid stock and speak a Tibeto-Burman group of languages.  A fifty minute flight from Kolkata, the Dimapur airport is located amidst the small plains of Nagaland; while most of the state's territory consists of the Naga Hills – part of the Eastern Himalaya. In a mark of serendipity, we were told that the BBC in May 2016 screened an interview with one of the last surviving head-hunters in Nagaland. It remains on my bucket list of things to view.

Prolific bamboo resources have provided the impetus to establish the Nagaland Bamboo Development Agency in Dimapur. Much of the economy is dependent on natural resources – agriculture, forests, water. Within the sprawling complex, lie artisans creating bamboo furniture for the domestic and international markets; a factory producing charcoal briquettes for barbeque, a museum featuring varieties of objects made from the bamboo plant (flutes, baskets, flooring, hats and even paintings), a bamboo boutique for shoppers and a bamboo roofed and pillared restaurant 'Bambusa.' Bamboo shoots were had in a chicken curry. Stir-fried beef was chosen without Naga chili (the dynamite variety) that has been described as 'Nagaland's fabulous chili which would give the Mexicans a run for their money' and filling fried rice. A measure of contemporary fusion is to be observed in the grass-root material-built pavilion that has on it plastered 'Wi-Fi Available'. An effort to see the Kachari medieval ruins was uneventful since it was closed on the day. Dimapur was the ancient capital of the thirteenth century Kachar kingdom. Apparently, rock monoliths, temples, embankments and baths are to be seen.

In a spirit of discovery, we ventured up a winding stepped path to AZ Phizo's birth place atop a hill. We were in Khonoma. AZ Phizo was the father of the Naga Nationalist Movement and is widely respected in the state. There amidst the alluring and pristine high hills, we knew we were in one of many of 'God's Own Land.' We discovered the music of silence. There was hardly anyone around the terraced living areas. All was clean and green – Nagaland's first eco-village. An Alpine-like Naga cottage complete with pots of radiant purple and pink geraniums provided picture-perfect postcard serenity. This was one of those 'live the moment' experiences. As we climbed higher and higher, the eye took in distant churches nestled amongst verdant hills. While at lower altitudes, summer has left its parched imprint. Smatterings of rhododendron trees grace the path as do marijuana. Although, we did not have a chance to see it, some fifteen kilometres to the south of Kohima, lies Japfu Peak, the second highest peak in Nagaland at 3048 metres above sea level. Here one can find the tallest rhododendron tree in the world. Over 109 feet tall and the base measures more than 11 feet. It has the honour of being mentioned in the Guinness Book of World Records.

The idyllic sylvan setting was punctured when we were told that within these hills, fierce battles raged between the British and the Naga people. A fort had been built by the British during the first Anglo-Khonoma battle. The last stand against the British intrusion occurred in 1879. Bamboo shafts and spears were no match for gunfire. Valleys of tears lay around us. A small memorial on our hilltop commemorates the battle. Mentioned are the names of three British officers and one Indian. It is maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India.

As we drove through twisting and turning curves into the Naga Hills, us car occupants were rocking and rolling through rough roads. Sign-boards spotted were: 'Visa Stationeries,' 'Bright Corner Paan Shop,' 'Capital Air-Gun Shop,' 'Hotel Ozzy' (Aussie?), 'Rice Hotel,' 'Nagaland Wrestling Association,' Cider Center,' 'Symphony of Rock Music,' 'Zonal Taxis' and 'Crossword Book Shop.' English is widely spoken and well spoken. Baptist missionary schools were established early on and both Christianity and Education flourished. We were en route to Kohima. Like the surrounding rolling hills, Naga names roll musically off one's tongue.

A drive up a hill has us halt before a well-maintained bungalow decked in a profusion of floral beds - pansies and roses creating an artist's canvas. We were in the grounds of the former British District Commissioner's Bungalow, on Officer's Hill in Kohima. Today, it has been restored into a four bedroom hotel 'The Heritage.' Maps, portraits, oil paintings of the surrounding landscape and wooden plaques listing the names of its occupants adorn walls. While book shelves line walls, sink-in sofas invite sitters around the fireplace. Had we known of this hidden jewel, we would have embedded ourselves here. Elsewhere, Kohima offers homestays with Nagaland families – homes in the hills.

Privileged to enjoy the warm hospitality of Naga friends; an open-air casual Naga dinner under a star-filled sky and cool temperature in Dimapur was characteristic of their well-known openness of home and heart. A second treat came our way in Kohima as we nibbled our way through Naga appetizers only to be accompanied by our guitar-playing host who serenaded us with Bob Dylan, Harry Belafonte and country-western numbers. Here we were comfortably seated in a bungalow in a corner of North-east India singing along - surely a serendipitous moment. 

'Window to Nagaland' Kisama village provides a telescopic purview of the traditional housing of the sixteen tribes of Nagaland. From the Angami, Chankhesang, Garo, Rengma, Sumi to Zeliang; each one of the ethnic groups have their distinctive village home in open air display. All housing material is sourced from the land – bamboo, straw and wood. The high-point of the year is the festival of all Nagaland festivals, the Hornbill Festival held annually early December. In what has morphed into a major North-eastern and beyond musical and cultural event, the yellow and black beaked Hornbill bird flies the flag. This is a happening event with cutting-edge music combined with traditionally outfitted dancers celebrating Nagaland's rich heritage.

(To be concluded in the next issue.)

Raana Haider is a writer and a travel enthusiast.