A walk down perfume lane

On a Wednesday afternoon, we were walking along one of the dusty roads of Dhaka that everyone can easily imagine – a path littered with debris and puddles of murky water.

Attempts to navigate the alleyways under the relentless glare of the sun were tough enough. Still, combined with the cacophony of chiming rickshaws and yelling vendors, the experience caused a true sensory overload.

But as we trudged further into the Mitford area in the capital city, a strong aroma floated past, like a cool breeze offering relief from the heat. The familiar smell of rose, jasmine, or tuberose was enough to make the slog through the messy streets feel like a walk in the park.

Soon enough we found dozens of shops, each overflowing with colourful glass bottles filled with perfume and attar, and the realisation dawned that the fragrance was not from a specific shop, but had wafted in from the hundreds of shops lining the road from the Babubazar intersection to Sir Salimullah Medical College Mitford Hospital.

They had stumbled into Mitford's famed perfume market, which stands as the sole wholesale hub for perfumes in Dhaka.

MULTICULTURAL ORIGINS

The exact origin of the perfume business in the area is unclear, but stories have been passed down through the generations.

According to various businessmen, the perfume business in Dhaka was initiated by non-Bengali businessmen in the 1940s. As demand surged, entrepreneurs from Madras (now known as Chennai), Karachi, and Bihar flocked to the region.

Initially, only three to four shops in the narrow streets catered to the needs of discerning Dhaka residents. But those humble roots paved the way for the future, with around 500 perfume shops in the area specialising in non-alcoholic perfumes now, according to locals.

OTTIS, THE BEGINNING

Wandering around the road, one may stumble upon a quiet pioneer: Ottis Perfume House. Established in 1945, it stands as a testament not to just a business, but a dream born from an unfulfilled debt.

KP Mohammad, the Madrasi who founded the shop, came to Dhaka to claim money from a trader to whom his father had sold a consignment of perfumes. Unable to pay for the goods, the trader returned the consignment, and Mohammad decided to sell the goods in Dhaka instead of taking them back.

While selling them in a makeshift stall, he conceived the idea of opening a proper store and thus Ottis was born. The rest, as people say, is fragrant history.

Now run by Mohammed's grandsons, Ottis carries the torch of tradition with a modern touch.

One of the current owners, a representative of the third generation, KP Saif Ali, said: "Ottis started its journey on 6 Mitford Road. The head office is still situated there."

The company also sells items online. It mainly produces perfumes but also offers essences and incense.

 "Whether you are in front of a mosque or at a shopping mall, you will find our products in any perfume shop in Bangladesh," Saif added.

Ottis now produces 20 to 25 types of perfume. Its most popular perfumes are 'Darbar' and 'Kasturi' with each bottle priced at Tk 45 an ounce. 

"The perfume business in Bangladesh will never stop. I think this business will grow bigger by the day. But for that, we have to sell the right quality of products."

FARHAN PERFUMES: A WHIFF OF LUCKNOW

Adjacent to Ottis stands Farhan Perfumes.

Its current owner, Sarfaraz Ahmed, says that selling perfume is not a business for him, but more a matter of passion.

The middle-aged Sarfaraz's ancestors were residents of Lucknow and when they opened the business in 1960, it was named Lucknow Attar Factory. There were only four perfume shops in the area at that time.

The shop was later renamed Khushbu Perfume House. They had businesses in Dhaka and Lahore, and Sarfaraz's relatives in Pakistan are still running the business under the name Khushbu Perfume House, he said.

Farhan Perfumes mainly sells attar. However, it does not produce the items. Rather, it imports perfumes from India, Spain, and France.

EYE-POPPING PRICE TAGS

Mitford's exterior is somewhat coarse. A world of exquisite, high-end perfumes hides within.

While budget-friendly options abound, with Darbar at Tk 45 per ounce and classics like Kasturi and Jannat similarly accessible, Mitford also caters to clients seeking drops of opulence.

The aroma of exclusivity can be found in stores like Ottis, where a single millilitre of Sylheti agarwood perfume demands Tk 900.

But that is only the tip of the iceberg.

Brands such as Arosha, Aasil, Alf Zahura, Al Faris, Choco Musk, Fawakeh, Royal Mirage, Salma, Sultan, and Vicky, fetch between Tk 6,000 and Tk 10,000 per litre, the same price bracket that white Oud is found in.

But the true crown jewels of Mitford's perfume scene are Ehsas Al Arabia and BR 45, priced at a breathtaking Tk 24,000 per litre. Black Oud, with its potent allure, is priced at Tk 20,000.

"These are for those who treat perfumes as an indulgence, not just a necessity," said Sayed Anwar, a local businessman.

He added that these were "statement pieces" and "aromatic signatures".

Most of these fragrances are imported from India, France, and Switzerland, according to Shafikul Islam Milon, general secretary of the Bangladesh Chemicals and Perfumery Merchants Association.