Early morning in Shankhari Bazaar imparts a sense of calm, mingled with a hint of festivity, in every visitor. The narrow lane paving way to the narrower 'goli' of Shankhari Bazaar, a 400 year-old neighbourhood, is lined with jewellery stores casting a golden-yellow hue from the gold ornaments showcased inside the glass windows. 

The sky line is a cobweb of hanging wires and the streets start getting busy at the crack of dawn. Nestled in the heart of the old town, Shankhari Bazaar was named after the Shankhari community, which derives its name from the ornate, hand-crafted, conch shell bangles (shankhas) they produce. 

The shankha craftsmen have been around since the pre-Mughal times, if not earlier, and this part of the town has the highest number of Hindus in Dhaka city. Their craft fights to stand the test of time and passionate craftsmen still hold on to the age old tradition of hand carving the shankha (conch shell bangle) from scratch creating intricate designs on the bangles. 

It is a labour of love and shankhas are vital elements used during the pujas by Hindus. Along with the Shankha, the white shell bangle, which is worn as a symbol of marriage, there is vadya shankha which is used as a trumpet, while the jal-shankha is used to offer holy water to the deities and for other decorative ornaments. 

The shankha holds a special place in a married Hindu woman's heart. She usually receives it from the elder females of the house-hold during the wee hours of the morning on the day of her wedding. This is one of the first symbols signalling the start of a new life for her. They adorn this white conch shell bangle throughout their married life paired with a red bangle called the pola—generally a gift from the in-laws.

Shankhas are intricately designed using a thin metal file to carve patterns symbolising the love and respect for nature showcasing flowers, leaves, peacocks, elephants and various other designs drawn from the stories featured in the Hindu scripture such as the Ramayan and Geeta. 

The shankha craftsmen detail out faces and bodies of Hindu gods and goddesses over the shankha as well. Shankhas these days are also lined with gold or silver, which is a more expensive variant of the traditional piece. Prices for the bangles start around Tk500 and above, depending on the detailed work.

Shankhari Bazaar is a place of charm and magic, old building dating from the Mughal era or even earlier lines the streets with sweet shops showcasing laddus and various mishti adding to the charm. Coupled with that, the heady smell of flowers, dhoop and incense hangs on the streets and the sound of dhol during puja catapults you to a different time. 

Sadly, the community christened after the Shankharis, who settled in this part of the city hundreds of years back, is in a struggle to hold on to a tradition handed down by their forefathers as times change. Some artisans continue to fight and showcase the culture and tradition that is captured in this beautiful artwork. 

By Abida Rahman Chowdhury

Photo: Collected