Missing Dhaka? One bite of fuchka brings you home

Fuchka is an unhealthy but delightful bite of sin that we Dhakaites cannot do without. No matter which corner of the globe we live in, our periodic craving for this tangy street food makes us homesick, or perhaps fuchka sick.

Paper-thin, hollowed bite-size balls made from flour or semolina dough are filled with a stew of potato and chickpeas. They are topped with garnishes like onions, green chilli, coriander leaves, and boiled egg shavings, but before you pop one into your mouth, you add a spoonful of tangy tamarind water, and that makes all the difference.

A fuchka-purist like myself does not agree with the recent gimmicky experimentation the vendors are coming up with. For example, adding cucumber as a garnish or making the tamarind water sweet is downright sacrilegious. The array of terracotta pots of sweet, spicy and tangy liquid put on the front row in the fuchka carts are also an eyesore.

I first saw these hideous pots in Uttara fuchka carts. Before I elaborate any further, you should know that Uttara is a sham when it comes to fuchkas. Moreover, calling it "pani puri" is not done in my fuchka book. Pani puri and gol gappa are Indian twists on our fuchka, which cannot be a substitute for it as they have a totally different sour flavour.

However, I do enjoy the Indian chaat variation, called Dahi fuchka, where adding a dollop of chilled zesty yoghurt mix takes it up a notch. This Indian chaat spin made its debut in Dhaka quite a while ago. The addictive chilled yoghurt mixed over crispy fuchka, must be devoured within minutes of serving, or it will go soggy. It is a fun addition to our existing assortment of snacks.

Dhaka fuchkas have an almost perfect recipe; one that does not need improvising. The humble roadside snack has now made a grand entry in fine dining as cocktail snacks, served over a shot glass filled with the tamarind concoction. I love the new posh plating of this quintessential Dhaka's hallmark street food.

Our humble fuchka enjoyed the spotlight when Australian MasterChef's Bangladeshi contestant Kishwar Chowdhury put up a plate for the judges.

Photo: Star

For any food cart to become a hit, the fuchkas must be crisp and not smell of day-old fried oil. The potato mix must be fresh and made on the day to avoid going bad. The onions must also be freshly cut right before serving to ensure that it is has not grown any bacterial growth from poor storing facilities.

There are quite a few good places that serve fresh, crispy fuchkas. The second floor of Pink City is famous among shoppers. Various food stands in New Market and Dhaka University are also good places to find a great fuchka.

But my absolute favourite is Fusion Café, next to the Kumudini store on Gulshan Avenue. One plate of 8 or so stuffed crunchy balls in a tangy spice blend can be easily gobbled up in minutes, and then you always consider another round. The late evening hours see a rush of customers -- from groups of friends, colleagues, or families – who crowd the place, while some senior aficionados even sit in the car at late hours and order away.

However, I found a new contender to topple this cart. My friend, who is not a fan of street fuchka for health reasons, took me to Happiness Café, tucked inside the ground floor of Cityscape Tower on Gulshan Avenue.

Aesthetically decorated using vintage cane and wooden furniture, the place offers a cosy and comfortable ambiance. It has an impressive collection of books, and you can read while sipping the gourmet coffee or tea. They have a low table for kids to draw pictures and keep busy while parents chill playing ludo or chess or enjoy their meal.

They serve breakfast, brunch, and delightful seasonal fruit mocktails, but of course, their most popular item is the evening bites of fuchka. The menu offers Dahi fuchka, regular fuchka, and Naga fuchka. These handmade fresh crispy fuchkas are filled with mashed chickpeas, mixed with chopped onions, lime, coriander, and green chilies or naga chili, and comes with a sour dip of yoghurt or tamarind pulp.

This joint has given me the option to treat fuchka to my expat friends without having to feel guilty about the potential health hazards of unhygienic street food. Upscaling fuchka is one of the best things that happened to Dhaka.