Two decades past its establishment, the Jamdani industrial estate is plagued with multifaceted problems and is nowhere near living up to expectations.

Some Tk 6 crore was shelled out to erect the estate on 20 acres of land at Noapara in Narayanganj's Rupganj upazila, some 20 kilometres east of Dhaka city. Hopes were high for it to usher in a new era for Jamdani, one of Bengal's centuries-old, finest cotton muslins.

Its objective was to enhance the production quality and marketing, supply designs and samples having high demand in markets and conduct research on improving qualitative standards.

It was also meant to provide infrastructural facilities to artisans, rehabilitate entrepreneurs and weavers and promote the socio-economic status of skilled and experienced craftspeople.

But it all apparently lost focus somewhere along the way.

Hardly any guideline, monitoring or financial support has come from the state-run Bangladesh Small and Cottage Industries Corporation (BSCIC), which had constructed the estate.

The estate has not seen any development work for a decade. Roads have turned dilapidated while its lone water pump has only just recently been repaired, all to no avail for there is no water distribution network.

Unable to recoup their investments and compete with Indian varieties and for a lack of working capital, entrepreneurs there are either wrapping up their businesses by selling off their plots or shifting to other trades.

The number of weavers has dropped to less than 2,000, although a 2002 BSCIC survey had at that time counted over 2,500.

Deprived of wages that justify the long working hours and exquisite skills alongside developing back pain and a decreased ability to see working with the fine yarn, the weavers are switching to other professions.

The same is being opted by their next generation. People involved in the industry have expressed apprehensions about their existence in the days to come.

This poses a big threat to the heritage fabric reminiscent of Mughal rule.

It takes at least around 10 years for an apprentice to gain the skills required to be acknowledged as a weaver.

Moreover, the geometric designs on the fabric, reflecting local flora and fauna, come from instinct and are passed down verbally through generations.

These efforts highlight the value of Jamdani.

The traditional art of Jamdani weaving in Bangladesh has already been put up in the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization's (Unesco) Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity on December 4, 2013.

Moreover, the government certified Jamdani as a Geographical Indication (GI) product five years back. The temperature, humidity, soil ecology, and minerals in the Sitalakhya's waters are uniquely suited for the production of Jamdani.

The estate's entrepreneurs earned around Tk 30 crore to Tk 32 crore in 2020 from around 60,000 pieces of sari, salwar kameez, panjabi, screens, neckties etc.

However, annual earnings some 20 years back were as much as Tk 45 crore to Tk 50 crore.

The acceptance and demand for Jamdani products has significantly increased in the past 20 years, as testified by entrepreneurs and vendors at several markets around Dhaka.

"The demand for Jamdani products, especially saris, have increased by 4 to 5 per cent in the country in the last 10 years," said Saiful Islam, a salesperson at Adi Jamdani Cottage in Dhanmondi Hawkers Market of Dhaka.

"But the impact of Indian Jamdani saris and other products is increasing day by day, which is detrimental to the entrepreneurs of our country," he added.

"Jamdani is a special product for which it is very important for its raw materials to be of special quality," said Khalid Mahmood Khan, director of fashion brand Kay Kraft.

"Supply of quality raw materials should be ensured throughout the year at fair prices," he said.

"It is also important to take special care of artists involved in making the product. And so, focus should be on increasing capital flow, diversities in designs and overall development of quality of life of the employees," Khan added.

Some of the estate's entrepreneurs, in a race for survival, have struck deals with established local lifestyle brands to supply their products.

"Entrepreneurs have to take up initiatives to sell their products online," said Jahangir Hossain, a weaver of the estate.

"The salaries of Jamdani artisans have to be increased in line with the current market prices of goods and incomes of other professionals," he added.

Weavers allege government support in marketing was inadequate, leading to a waste of the sector's potential.

However, the BSCIC organises three fairs every year for greater exposure -- on Bangla Academy premises on the eve of Pahela Baishakh, the first day of the Bangla calendar; and two others in Chattogram and Dhaka ahead of Eid-ul-Fitr.

Though a couple of fairs are organised in India, at best 20 weavers get the opportunity to participate.

"The government should first build up a marketplace for Jamdani from where we can sell directly to buyers from different countries of the world. This will enhance the reputation of our product as well the market for Jamdani," said Belal Hossain, an entrepreneur.

Entrepreneurs Reluctant to Follow Rules

According to the BSCIC rules, the estate entrepreneurs should have at least three handlooms operational in each plot they are allotted.

But 50 per cent of the estate's 407 plots had one or two handlooms, allege the BSCIC officials, adding that entrepreneurs had erected rooms in the rest and rented those out as living quarters. This was confirmed during a recent visit.

"Many weavers left the profession after taking plots. Some switched to another trade. Some have somehow kept their business alive. But they did not let go of the plot," said one entrepreneur seeking anonymity.

"Again, some don't have expertise on handlooms but bought a plot for its low price. Some entrepreneurs set up a few handlooms and had weavers running those only to prevent the plot allotment from being cancelled," he said.

Plots Sold Off Unlawfully

A section of entrepreneurs have sold off their plots without following the rules, unable to keep business running. This was the case for over 200 plots, depriving the government of revenue.

According to the BSCIC rules, an entrepreneur can sell a plot by paying a transfer fee of Tk 70,000 to the BSCIC.

Md Shamsuddin sold his "A-14" plot to entrepreneur Al-Amin six months ago.

"My financial condition is not good. That's why I sold this plot that I received around fiscal 2001-02," said Shamsuddin.

"The business is not in a good shape because of the coronavirus pandemic. Hopefully next year I can legalise the purchase in accordance with the rules," said Al-Amin.

No Development Works

On a recent visit, the estate was found to have no paved road. Garbage was strewn all over the area and in small piles here and there.

In some places, sewage overflowed onto the roads, causing waterlogging. In others, movement was possible only over concrete slabs covering drains on the side of the road.

Locals say even a little rain causes knee-deep waterlogging. "Rain for an hour causes waterlogging which can easily enter into homes," said Lovely Begum, a resident of the area.

"It is difficult to move when it rains. We have complained about this on various occasions. But to no avail. It's been going on for years," she said.

Entrepreneurs said the estate's sole water pump had been inoperative since 2010. It was recently repaired at a cost of Tk 42 lakh. But a water supply line is yet to be built.

"The authorities are aware of these problems. Then again, I will talk to them. I hope we can resolve the problems step by step," said Shahjahan Ali, the estate's chief officer.

There are flaws in the estate's planning, one of which is letting weavers live there with their families, said BSCIC Chairman Mostaque Hassan.

Weavers do not take it upon themselves to maintain the place, he said.

"This decision destroyed the image of the industrial estate. This mistake is not amendable. We have tried to solve the problems. But I couldn't solve it," he said.