Both the European Union and the United States yesterday reiterated their calls to protect labour rights and the environment for the sustainability of the apparel business in Bangladesh.

Sustainability has different aspects like environmental, supply chain, recycling and energy uses, said Peter D Haas, the US ambassador to Bangladesh.

"But I want to focus my remarks on one specific aspect: the role of workers."

He spoke at the inauguration of the 4th edition of the Sustainable Apparel Forum (SAF) organised by the Bangladesh Apparel Exchange at the Radisson Hotel in Dhaka.

Haas described the role of workers as one of the main driving forces in the sustainability of the garment sector.

In this regard, he called for labour law reforms since many workers don't get the chance to exercise labour rights, freedom of association and collective bargaining.

He also expressed concerns as the workers in the export processing zones don't get the opportunity to exercise the freedom of association as well.

"An empowered workforce is directly related to sustainability. Sustainability and economic growth go hand in hand."

He said protection of the workers does not just mean the protection of them in terms of wage, safety and child care. "It is also giving a voice, making them partners in the supply chain."

Charles Whiteley, the EU ambassador to Bangladesh, suggested improving labour rights in order to obtain the trade benefit under the new EU Generalised System of Preferences (GSP).

The bloc is finalising the new GSP rules to be effective from January for the next decade.

Whiteley said it is needed to intensify the rules of the EU, the government and civil society in a bid to ensure a smooth transition of the country as Bangladesh is yet to become a centre of excellence in terms of compliance.

The EU wants the implementation of the National Action Plan to improve the labour standard and the country's garment sector to raise the use of renewable energy to 40 per cent by 2041, Whiteley also said.

In 2002, Bangladesh's garment export to the EU was 3 billion euros and it reached 24 billion euros in 2022.

Faruque Hassan, president of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association, said Bangladesh is the champion in green garment factories as the country hosts 53 out of 100 top green apparel factories in the world.

Another 550 garment factories are waiting to be certified as green factories by the United States Green Building Council.

"Local entrepreneurs have invested a lot of money for green manufacturing," Hassan said.

"As a large buyer in Bangladesh, we recognise our responsibility to be at the forefront in driving the sustainability agenda," said Ziaur Rahman, regional country manager for production at H&M for Bangladesh, Pakistan and Africa, while speaking at the plenary session.

According to Rahman, the most pressing issue right now is climate change.

"H&M, like other brands, has set ambitious targets in line with the Paris Agreement. We need to come together to find solutions to make our industry more sustainable."

He said the fashion industry needs to reduce its carbon footprint and most of the emissions are coming from the production of garments. There is a pressing need for the use of more renewable energy in the manufacturing hubs like Bangladesh.

"Textile waste recycling is also becoming increasingly important, and we see the need for policy support to scale up the recycling capability and capacity locally."

Some 60 speakers and 20 exhibitors from across the world gathered at the forum.

"Bangladesh has already achieved a lot in sustainability in the garment supply chain. This type of events will help international retailers and brands know about the progress," said Mostafiz Uddin, organiser of the SAF.

Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi also spoke.