As artists working in a largely visual medium, fashion designers have, since the dawn of couture, had a strong relationship to colour. Some relationships are stronger than others, the colour becoming inextricable from the designer's identity. Consider the iconic Valentino Red or International Klein Blue. Or how Giorgio Armani earned himself the title of 'King of Greige'.

Using a statement colour as a cornerstone for brand identity is a practice that has in recent years seen a rise in popularity. Shaibal Saha pushed his Indigo brand and love of everything blue for a good number of years. We mourned the brief life of Monokrome by Maheen Khan. If there's a designer, however, who has impressed both with the longevity of her brand, and her innovations in style, however, it has to be Rumana Chowdhury, designer and founder of Warah.

Sustainable style

One of the hallmarks of Rumana's work is her extensive collaboration with traditional artisan communities. Working with materials like block and Khadi, she not only brought new life to once overlooked fabrics but also played a crucial role in reviving dying artisan communities.

Through the use of moisturised cotton and natural processing, Rumana popularised locally produced cotton while minimising the environmental impact. By employing local artisans, the designer ensured the economic viability of century-old trades and knowledge, securing the livelihoods of several artisan families and preserving traditions passed down through generations.

Along with eco-friendly practices incorporated into her brainchild, Rumana has also kept in mind our cultural heritage, drawing inspiration from the archaeological treasures in and around the country to create distinctive motifs in her work, and to film her portfolios at these very heritage sites that inspire her, to bring the attention back to these oft-overlooked places.

Wardrobe wizardry

Over the years, Rumana's brainchild has presented its clientele with a dizzying array of colours and exciting prints, but if there's a hue that has become the cornerstone of the label and an instant association with its founder, it has to be the classic shade of ivory.

Recently, the designer unveiled an exciting capsule collection that pushed her preferred monochrome aesthetic to new lengths, and to a jaw-dropping effect.  Featuring twelve outfits, it is an eye-catching collection that features streetwear-inspired looks in ivory khadi with gold paint and crochet lace details.

From jumpsuits and trench coats to tunics and co-ords, the looks were fresh, modern, wearable, and instantly appropriate for any occasion.

"There's something very grounding about the ivory shade; it has a regal elegance to it, but at the same time, there is a humbling simplicity. It is so versatile. I like playing with colours, but I find myself returning time and time to the classic ivory, so this time I decided to just go all out," Rumana Chowdhury said.

Proving herself to be a designer with an eye on the pulse of contemporary values, each 'look' presented in the collection is an amalgamation of several pieces which include separate and interchangeable components, which can be mixed and matched with components from the other outfits in the collection, or with other pieces from your wardrobe to give you endless options.

With the exception of a fitted bustier on a couple of looks, and a flouncy skirt on another, a lot of the pieces, especially the layering pieces, like the trench coats and bomber jackets, have gender-fluid aesthetics, meaning anyone could wear them, and this is definitely something that will appeal to the modern generation that is striving to rise beyond gendered labels in fashion.

"I don't like to think of sustainable fashion as limiting. I believe that if we buy consciously and invest wisely in our fashion choices, we can still enjoy a wardrobe with options. We can still play and have fun with fashion. We don't have to give any of that up if we can learn how to do more with less," she said.

Rumana's success story is not only a testament to her unique designs but also to her conscientious efforts towards sustainable and socially responsible fashion. Her vision goes beyond creating aesthetically pleasing garments; it encompasses a commitment to the well-being of the environment and the communities involved in the production process.

Photographer: Adnan Rahman

Styling & Fashion Direction: Mahmudul Hasan Mukul

Models: Rupom Saif Bashar, Sonia Yeasmin Isha, Salman Sunjid, Asma Ul Husna Bristy, Syeda Towhida Huque Tithi

Makeup: Md. Shohag