Beautiful Bangladesh: Thanchi

Bangladesh is a country of unique diversity. Just take a few bold steps from your house and you will come across a country that you could never have imagined. Beyond the barren, concrete jungle that is our capital city, lies unimaginable splendours. To truly grasp the raw beauty of Bangladesh, its best to stray off the beaten path.  

One such path leads to Thanchi, one of the remotest parts of our country. It falls under the Bandarban District of Chittagong Hill Tracts (CHT) and it appears as a tiny speck on the map of Bangladesh. CHT is always beautiful and everything about the area, the culture, the people, and their diversity piques the interests of even the most casual of travellers. Thanchi is no different in this regard despite its size.

Thanchi is 3,500 feet above sea level and one can imagine the steep journey you need to undertake to reach the destination. From Bandarban, you can hire a 'chander gari' if you have a large contingent of travellers of say about 20 people. It would cost around around Tk5000.  But if you are in small numbers, the local bus from Bandarban to Thanchi can be a good experience. It would take you around Tk250 per person and is a four hour journey from Bandarban. The buses usually start from Thanchi bus stand; ask anyone in Bandarban and they will tell you how to go there. The only problem is that the buses that ply that road just go there once a day and the last bus that leaves Thanchi is at 2pm. The remoteness of the area and also the geography makes a night time journey a perilous adventure. During the rainy reason, Thanchi remains cut off from the rest of the country. The only way to reach it then is by crossing the river Sangu. 

I took the local bus ride from Bandarban. The buses go real slow up the narrow roads, which are daunting with their dangerous turning points. But you can forgive yourself for forgetting the dangers as you remain transfixed by the beautiful hills that lie in front of you. 

It is breath taking to see such beauty; the clouds and the sunshine. As far as the eye can see, you see green hills and in the distance the hills are dotted with homes belonging to the Adivasi people living. This very same road leads to Nilgiri, the famous home of the clouds. Thanchi is almost 40 kilometeres away from Nilgiri. On the way to Nilgiri, the buses stop at Lusai hills for some time. Travellers can have some refreshment from the shops that have been set up for them there. There are some 'adivasi' stores also and you just need to walk a little bit to find them. These shops sell local products like handmade shawls and blankets. Those are really colourful and the temptation to buy them remains. You may also get the local 'adivasi' dress if you want to buy them. The friendliness of the local people make the entire experience all the more pleasant.  

As a first time traveller to Thanchi I was excited about what lies beyond Nilgiri. The beauty as I have said before is dazzling. The hills are thoroughly pristine, untouched by the perversions of modernity.  The roads are narrow and broken and the risk is enormous at times when travelling through this rustic pathway but the reward at the end is worth it.  

After a 4 hour bus ride from Bandarban and with couple of stop overs we reached Thanchi Bazar around 3pm. I had some locals waiting for me at the bus station. They guided us to the rest houses. Those were not very grand and cost Tk500 per night. Thanchi is so high up and so remote, food and water are both scarce. There are of course shops in the bazaar. However, it is a good idea for every one travelling to Thanchi to make sure they carry enough dry food and water with them.

One beautiful thing about Thanchi is the spectacular hill that greets you immediately. A road has been built though the heart of that hill which is also the highest road of Bangladesh and it is called the Thanchi – Alikadam . 

I wanted to travel there but just could not go.  I took rides in the beautiful Sangu river. I must add that the river is a beauty all by itself. I guess when we travelled there, it was just the end of the rainy season and the river was flowing beautifully.  Due to lack of time I could not go to Remarki Lake, Nafakhum or  Amiakhum waterfall. As a traveller who nurtures an intense interest in Chittagong Hill Tracts I am sure I will see those also. Till then!

By Shahed Latif
Photo: Sazzad Ibne Sayed