Turkey - the land of spirituality

I was planning on starting this travelogue with "there has never been a better time to visit Turkey" but under the current circumstances, and thanks to President Putin, that just might not be appropriate. Whether it is the headlines screaming at me or the fact that I have recently started to pray again, Turkey, in particular Istanbul, is on my mind. 

I remember a couple of years ago, post my first trip to Istanbul, I pushed out hordes of friends and family members on this near-pilgrim experience, vouching for it with my usual erratic enthusiasm. When I tripped past this spiritually invigorating city on my way back to Dhaka from London, I remember not being able to shut up about the experience, in that annoying way you tend to when you are in love! 

The fact that I happened to have been inside the Blue mosque (that I had only witnessed James Bond whiz past on his bike up until then) on a Friday for a Jummah prayer, my first in many years, still manages to give me goose bumps. 

 I cannot help but introduce Istanbul to you as the city surprisingly capable of awakening that odd sense of isolated spirituality irrespective of your race, creed and religious beliefs. Beware though – you will never quite leave the city the same person as you arrived. 

I remember arriving late in the afternoon, torn between looking at the beauty of the dusky skies and lapping up the charm of the ancient buildings around me. Trudging our cases along, my friend and I arrived at our accommodation in Sultanahmet (old Istanbul) rather breathless thanks to the cobblestones – ladies strictly no heels allowed on this trip! Since touchdown, I increasingly started to feel like I was inside one of the Indiana Jones movies. 

In my dreamy, trance-like state, I took off to find out more about my immediate vicinity and this older and dearer part of Istanbul did not disappoint. The charm and pleasure of walking through the old alleyways, with the top of the tables adorned in exotic Persian rugs while their fellow Persian feline family members man the territory underneath, old men in their traditional garbs greeting you wholeheartedly from every corner, their faces deeply etched in laugh lines, you are transported back to a world that only exists within those walls! Before we knew, we were ushered to occupy one of those tables under the stars and offered a taste of their specially brewed mint tea. 

Sipping my cuppa and inhaling the beautifully flavoured argile/sheesha/hookah, I was lost in a reverie which was momentarily interrupted by a hardbound case of backgammon casually shoved onto my table by a little boy. I had never been that keen about the game until then but that star-studded night, surrounded by the mysticism of Istanbul and the hazy view of the mosque in the distance, I felt strangely engrossed. 

There are quite a few items on my list, so I better get underway quickly! Facing the Blue mosque (which I am clearly saving up for the end) and as astounding in its magnificence as the other perhaps, stands the Byzantine masterpiece of Hagia Sophia. I stepped into its threshold on one of those days when you feel more human, more connected to nature, the world and feel like you are in love with the entire human race! 

I remember feeling teary as I discovered this monument known to be one of the greatest cathedrals in the world for more than nine centuries, before being turned into a mosque, and now finally a museum – as though God's way of saying to mere mortals, stop fighting over me fools, just enjoy the history!

Another spine-chilling, hair-raising experience was entering the Topkapi Palace.  I had heard so much and had so many preconceived notions regarding this place as I entered the hall where different Imams have been reciting passages from the Quran continuously for the past 500 years! If the sound of that beautiful recitation does not take your breath away, then the ancient religious relics will! Because you have everything from Prophet Moses' magical stick to Fatema (R) 's worn garb to the Prophet Mohammad's beard and footprints. 

If all the information above has left you breathless, let me pause and bring you back to earth with the mention of the local food and eateries. 

It is an absolute must to try out the pickled mussels and fish baguettes off the boats when you are out on your walk to the Bosphorus bridge or to take the ferry to cross over to the Asian shore. Both the food and the sceneries are equally marvellous! Try the Grand Bazaar, but most importantly try the spice markets for those haggles and bargains for the crafts, and oh yes, to get lost in those sprawling alleyways at least once! 

I cannot bring this write-up to a close without the mention of my night spent watching the whirling dervishes in a ritual performed inside a cave. I have a tremendous amount of respect and awe for Sufi culture and beliefs, and half-expecting a touristy, gaudy representation of that had filled my mind with trepidation. However, with sheer relief I thoroughly enjoyed this whirling performance put together by the followers of Rumi. 

I shall finish where I began this article – inside the coveted prayer grounds of the pigeon Blue mosque. Surrounded by a library rich in Islamic history and watching hordes of Turkish locals pause their busy schedule to connect with the creator, is a memory I dote upon as spiritually rejuvenating! 

By Naaz Fahmida
Photo: Collected