Old Dhaka’s hidden gems: Where history meets crumb mutton chops

Last Friday, I was strolling through Mohini Mohan Das Lane in the nostalgic neighbourhood of Farashganj in Old Dhaka. I love the old architecture of the area, and often go on such random excursions whenever I need to unwind.

The history of old heritage buildings intrigues me, and in my imagination, I try to refabricate the thriving times, and the beautiful people residing in those grand residences; daydreaming is one of my favourite pastimes, as you might have guessed by now.

I went to Mangal Abash (home of good omens) of Mohini Mohan Das; he was the nephew of the well-known Ruplal Das. Mangal Abash is currently the only residential hall of Kabi Nazrul Government College. Even in its dilapidated state, the mansion bears a grandiose look that is hard to describe.

Illustration: Ashif Ahmed Rudro

The narrow lanes of Farashganj are dotted with beautiful buildings boasting old French architecture and a rich history, like Ruplal House, Northbrook Hall, Laxmi Villa, Bihari Lal Jeo Mandir, Bibi ka Raoza, Shiv Mandir, and Gokul Roy's Samadhi.

While on the stroll, I stumbled upon an old gem of a café. With a white and green louvered ceiling, yellow walls, and a very basic wooden table and chairs, New Cafe Corner has a rustic yet retro vibe.

You will find New Cafe Corner, which boasts its birth since the British period, as you walk down North Brook Hall Road. It is quite a famed joint in the locality, and anyone can help you find the place if you simply ask, "Which way to the crumb chop place?"

New Café Corner's crumb mutton chaap or mutton chops is a single piece of bone-in meat that is chopped into mince and marinated in ginger, garlic, and the café's secret ingredients, and then coated in crumb and deep fried. It is served with a side of cucumber and onion salad.

"We are the only place in the whole of Dhaka that carries this crumb mutton chops, a British recipe followed to the tee by our cooks, since handed down from the original chef Joseph," says the smartly dressed maître d'hôtel, Md Shah Alam.

The current head chef, Md Mohsin, in service since 1989, was standing beside Shah Alam, in a typical Bengali baburchi or chef's attire of lungi, a t-shirt, and a gamcha tied around his waist. He says, "My ustad or teacher was Chef John, a direct disciple of Chef Joseph. They were Christian, and worked in English households and embassies, from where Joseph ustad honed the crumb mutton chop recipe. It is our best-selling snack, and we even get orders from offices, and for parties. Besides, we do not carry any beef items; we have crumbed lamb cutlets, shrimps, and potato croquet with mutton mince stuffing. Late afternoons and evenings are our snack time."

New Café Corner opens its door at 6:30am and serves customers till 10:00pm. Their breakfast menu of luchi, paratha, semolina halwa, mutton curry, and chicken giblets is very sought-after. But their egg station makes runny omelettes seasoned with aromatic spices, and poached eggs are so special that the café sells approximately 500 to 700 orders of eggs each morning. Unbelievable as it might sound, but when a regular for 25 years vouches for the menu and the taste, you are inclined to believe it.

Initially owned by a Hindu landlord, the outlet changed its name, adding the word 'New' to Café Corner after the Liberation War. The current owner, Haji Md Solaiman Mollick, runs the café with 18 staff, out of which 10 are sous chefs and chefs. "We get paid daily, after the accounts is closed. Our food and lodging in rented flats are taken care of by our owner. We have a steady flow of customers and business is good," chimes in the manager, Md Enamul Huq.

Sitting on the wooden benches and sipping on their strong milk tea with pastry-like fluffy hot Mughlai paratha, my weekend was spontaneous and fun.