Rana Plaza in retrospect: What has changed in a decade?
Last week marked the 11th anniversary of the Rana Plaza tragedy, a catastrophic event that shook the world's conscience and exposed the harsh realities faced by garment workers in Bangladesh and beyond. On April 24, 2013, the collapse of the Rana Plaza building in Savar, Dhaka claimed the lives of over 1,100 people, mostly garment workers, and injured thousands more. It was a stark reminder of the urgent need to address the glaring issues of workers' safety, protection, and rights within the global garment industry.
Keeping up with the multitude of challenges in the ready-made garment (RMG) sector, with the great commitment and tenacity of the RMG workers, particularly women workers, Bangladesh's apparel exports surged to an unprecedented pinnacle in 2023, soaring to an astonishing $47 billion, marking a remarkable 10.27 percent increase over the previous record established in 2022, as reported by the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB). This milestone not only signifies a significant achievement for the nation's textile industry, but also plays an important role in propelling the overall export figures for FY2022-23 to a staggering $55.56 billion. According to EPB, RMG constituted a dominant 84.58 percent of all export revenues, showcasing a notable rise from the 81.82 percent recorded in FY2021-22, underscoring the enduring significance of Bangladesh's textile sector in the global market landscape.
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The robust position of Bangladesh's RMG sector has not only led to surprising export growth but has also significantly contributed to creating increased employment opportunities, for both men and women workers. Moreover, the inclusive nature of employment in the RMG industry has fostered a more equitable and diverse labour force, showcasing the transformative power of the sector beyond economic metrics.
Following the Rana Plaza tragedy, it reignited numerous overlooked discussions concerning the holistic well-being of workers, extending beyond mere life concerns to address other vital issues that have always required attention.
A recent report from the International Labour Organization (ILO) reveals that the number of workers succumbing to work-related accidents and illnesses has risen by over five percent since 2015, totalling nearly three million deaths annually. This increase highlights the ongoing challenges in ensuring the health and safety of workers worldwide. The majority of these fatalities, approximately 2.6 million, result from work-related diseases, with an additional 330,000 attributed to work accidents. Analysis indicates that circulatory diseases, malignant neoplasms, and respiratory diseases are the primary causes of work-related deaths. Collectively, these three categories contribute to more than three quarters of the total work-related mortality rate.
Following the Rana Plaza tragedy, a global movement arose, demanding accountability, justice, and systemic change for garment workers. This unified effort, involving international organisations, governments, and civil society groups, led to notable improvements in workplace safety and conditions. ActionAid Bangladesh's 2023 research report highlighted key advancements, including the emergence of green factories, establishment of safety committees to conduct hazard assessments, and stricter membership criteria for the BGMEA. Additionally, government guidelines for subcontracting were issued, and the Employment Injury Pilot Scheme was launched to aid injured workers. Initiatives like the ILO's Better Work Programme and the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh played pivotal roles in enhancing working conditions and ensuring workers' safety. These collaborative efforts have significantly bolstered workplace safety, marking a crucial stride in safeguarding the rights and well-being of garment workers.
However, workplace safety still remains a pressing issue for many RMG workers. A good number of measures are being taken to strengthen safety regulations, but many factories still fall short of providing adequate safety measures, exposing workers to hazardous working conditions.
Garment workers continue to face dangerous working conditions, low wages, and limited access to social protection mechanisms such as life insurance. According to the ILO, many garment workers are still employed under informal contracts, leaving them vulnerable to exploitation and abuse. ActionAid Bangladesh's recent report on the garment industry (2023) highlights the need for greater investment in social protection schemes to ensure that workers are adequately covered in the event of accidents or emergencies.
The Covid pandemic has further exacerbated the challenges faced by garment workers, with many losing their jobs or facing unsafe working conditions due to inadequate health and safety measures. The Clean Clothes Campaign has warned that the pandemic has exposed the fragility of the garment industry's supply chain and the need for greater resilience and sustainability.
It is undeniable that there have been some positive developments in recent years. The PayUp campaign, launched in response to the pandemic, has successfully pressured major fashion brands to honour their commitments and pay for completed orders, providing much-needed relief to garment workers. Additionally, the rise of ethical and sustainable fashion brands has brought greater attention to the plight of garment workers and the need for fair and transparent supply chains.
However, addressing the root causes of exploitation and inequality within the garment industry requires more than just voluntary initiatives and corporate social responsibility. It requires structural reforms, robust regulatory frameworks, and meaningful engagement with workers and their representatives. As the ILO emphasises, ensuring decent work for all requires a holistic approach that addresses not only workplace safety, but also issues of wages, working hours, and social protection.
Studies also reveal that the price hike of daily commodities are making the situation worse. A survey by ActionAid conducted last year among 200 workers and their families shows that 69 percent of the surveyed RMG workers are facing difficulties in managing their daily necessities due to the price hike. A quarter of respondents expressed their inability to afford three square meals a day, while an equal percentage found themselves unable to meet the costs of medical treatment and medicines. The pursuit of a nutritious diet and quality education for their children has become a distant dream, overshadowed by the spectre of empty stomachs and unpaid bills.
Ensuring dignified living conditions for garment workers extends beyond mere wage revision; it requires an all-inclusive approach from brands and factory owners. Overcrowded and unhygienic housing, coupled with limited access to clean water and cooking facilities, underscores the urgent need for improved living standards. Brands and factory owners must commit to providing decent housing options or subsidising accommodation costs, ensuring that workers can live with dignity and comfort.
It's vital to recognise the need for proactive risk management in the garment industry. Like many sectors, it faces external risks such as economic fluctuations and natural disasters. Businesses must prioritise resilience and sustainability by investing in robust risk management, diversifying supply chains, and forging partnerships to address challenges effectively. It's crucial to understand that sacrificing workers' rights for profit is unsustainable. Instead, businesses should prioritise ethical practices, fair wages, and safe working conditions. Aligning profitability with social responsibility not only enhances reputation but also fosters a more equitable and sustainable business environment.
Establishing a permanent compensation package is crucial for garment workers, ensuring coverage for medical expenses, lost wages, and support for dependents in workplace incidents. Making this package legally binding and accessible to all workers is vital for accountability and their dignity and protection.
As we mark the 11th anniversary of the Rana Plaza tragedy, it's a poignant reminder of the ongoing struggles faced by garment workers worldwide. Progress has been made, but concerted efforts are needed to uphold their dignity and fairness. All stakeholders must unite to address systemic issues within the garment industry, honouring the memory of those lost at Rana Plaza and forging a more just and sustainable future for garment workers globally.
Farah Kabir is country director of ActionAid Bangladesh. She can be reached at farah.kabir@actionaid.org
Views expressed in this article are the author's own.
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