The origins of the Palestinian keffiyeh and how it came to symbolise resistance

Palestinian freedom fighters and activists for Palestinian freedom the world over can often be seen adorning a distinct black and white headscarf. The keffiyeh, as it's called in Arabic, has been around for centuries. From being worn by priests and clerics to symbolise their high rank in ancient times, to peasants using it to shelter themselves from harsh weather, the keffiyeh is integral to Arab culture. Since the early 20th century, the Palestinian keffiyeh has intertwined itself with the struggle for freedom of the Palestinian people.

The story goes that during that 1936 Arab Revolt, a Palestinian fighter, a fedayeen, carried out an assault on British soldiers. One soldier escaped the battlefield to report back to his commander that the fedayeen responsible for the assault was wearing a keffiyeh. When the British started looking for the man in the keffiyeh, all the Palestinians started wearing it to foil the search efforts.

Some say that there was even a ban on the keffiyeh ordered by the British Mandate controlling the region at that point in history, but it only made Palestinians adopt the headscarf in greater numbers. Soon, it became a symbol of Palestinian resistance.

The keffiyeh entered the international spotlight on the head of Yassir Arafat, who would rarely be seen in public without it. In 1974, when he addressed the UN General Assembly, he wore the keffiyeh, and it has since become popular among militant groups as well as Palestinian rights activists across the world.

The design of the keffiyeh holds heavy symbolism. The keffiyeh can refer to any of various designs of headscarves worn by men all across the Middle East. It is said the black and white design of the Palestinian keffiyeh came to the region during the British Mandate from Iraq, where a similar version is worn, with the black more dominant.

The word itself comes from the fabled Iraqi city of Kufa. The criss-crossing pattern is said to mimic fishing nets, and the wavy lines on the side are meant to symbolise olive leaves. The olive tree has always been a vital lifeline for the Palestinians. Until the start of the recent conflict, 14 percent of the local economy relied on olives and olive-derived products.

Palestinians hold the keffiyeh in high regard and significance, and in the past, it has been pushed as a fashion accessory, much to the dismay of Palestinians for whom it is a symbol of resistance.

During conflicts in the region in the recent past, from the First Intifada in 1987 to the war going on right now, Palestinian rights activists across the world have adopted this headscarf as a show of solidarity. In Bangladesh, the Prothom Alo has reported that sales of the keffiyeh has increased tenfold in the last month.

In fashion, the variation of colours in the original black and white keffiyeh has been a controversial topic for Palestinians, so it's important for outsiders to be aware of the history and symbolism of the keffiyeh, and be respectful while donning it.