Meet the achar artisan of Dhaka: Mohammad Siraj's culinary journey

If you are an urban explorer of Dhaka, the achar carts — found in different alleys and gullies of the city — would not be something surprising for you. However, if you haven't been to Gulshan 1 DNCC Market yet, unfortunately, you have missed a vibrant emissary of tradition and taste, thanks to the variety of achar he sells.

We are talking about Mohammad Siraj, hailing from Barisal, who has been selling achar in the city for more than a decade now. Whether it was the vibrant corridors of the Dhaka International Trade Fair (DITF) or the bustling lanes of Rayer Bazaar, Siraj's journey with his achar cart has been one of exploration and passion. Today, settled in Gulshan, he has found his niche and sells achar to his loyal client base.

Photo: Collected / Prchi Palwe / Unsplash

"Many of my customers have been buying achar from me for a long time; some even pre-order a specific flavour in bulk," shares Siraj, his eyes lighting up with pride as he talks about his loyal clientele in Gulshan.

After a day spent perusing the latest fashions or bargaining for vegetables at Gulshan 1 DNCC Kacha Market, shoppers are often drawn to Siraj's cart, lured by the promise of the perfect accompaniment to their next meal.

Photo: Ferdous Uthso

Mind you, this is not merely a business for Siraj, but a legacy of love and tradition. "I prepare the achar at home and my family helps me to run my business. So, technically, you can call this a family-run business," he explains. The inception of "Motaleb Achar Ghor" ­— named affectionately after his son — marks a poignant chapter in Siraj's life, signifying the birth of both his child and his entrepreneurial journey.

But why achar, one might wonder? Siraj's response is as straightforward as it is profound: "The love for achar is an inherited trait for most Bengalis, and this tradition has been passed down to us from generations. I prepare each of my achars with utmost dedication and carefulness. From ensuring hygiene to picking out the best ingredient, I do all of these because I love making achar for my clients. I want my products to reflect my sincerity."

His statement echoes the sentiments of many who hold the tradition of achar-making close to their hearts. In a time when the art of making achar by hand is fading, becoming a rare skill cherished by few, Mohammad Siraj is a symbol of preservation and pride. "The art of making achar by hand is a dying art. Perhaps, you have seen your mother or grandmother do this. But nowadays, there are not many people interested in learning and making a jar of achar," he laments.

Photo: Ferdous Uthso

Yet, in the face of changing times and evolving tastes, the elderly vendor continues to ply his trade with an unwavering spirit. The move to Gulshan, driven by a desire to reach a broader and more diverse clientele, has indeed paid off.

As he continues to serve his beloved achar, Mohammad Siraj not only offers a taste of tradition, but also invites the achar lovers to partake in the preservation of a culinary art form that defines our culture.

If you wish to taste the delicious achar of Mohammad Siraj, contact him at +8801725404060