Behind the scenes: Story of Dhaka’s fish trade

Bachchu Miah and I have had a thriving business relationship for the last 27 years. I met this young vendor while I was living in Kalabagan and now after 19 years of being in Uttara, the not-so-young-Bachchu still delivers his fresh catch to me.

My friend has a similar relationship with Chand Miah to the extent that if he finds a 10 or 12 kg sweet-water fish, he insists on us friends sharing the deal. Chand Mia knows us too and any good supply in his watch routinely comes to us.

These men refuse to understand that we might not need it or we are broke and will defer their payment or pay in instalments. Perhaps, money is not their priority and giving their old clients the best catch of the day makes both these men happy.

They do take advantage of our trust in them but we forego those annoying issues of selling a few extra kilogrammes or secretly packing other rare varieties of fresh fish that we actually did not order.

These men roam the city streets and sell fish to long-time regular clients like us. They have our number on speed dial and a call from them at six in the morning, informing us of how good the fish market looks that day, is a frequent routine.

Then there are fishmongers on the footpath. They are a tad different from Bachchu and Chand. They sit in a group; a few friends make a pop-up fish bazaar and sell the catch. They buy their fish, which are usually an organic catch, from other small fishermen in the urban villages of the city outskirts. If you are fond of small fish or fish fries from the rivers then these men have the best catch.

They, however, complain that now with the high cost of living their profit margin has been compromised. They do not take up shops in local bazaars because they do not want to bear the rent or the utility costs. Rather, they sit under the scorching sun and sell till midday.

Then there are the local fish bazaars and superstores to get your fish; even online sites advertising for cut, cleaned, and de-scaled fishes. Frankly, I am grateful to the local fishmongers who persistently stay with you and maintain a win-win fish sale.

There is another shadow hand who works with these fishmongers; the women, men, or young children, who sit beside the vendor, in the fish market or on footpaths. They do the scaling and cutting of the fish we buy from the local traders, with their long-curved blades stuck to a wooden platform. They do this relentlessly for a meagre fee depending on the size and quantity of the fish.

Interestingly the fish oil, entrails, or innards thrown away by these cutters are in turn sold and picked by people who have pet cats; apparently, it is a treat for them. The cherished fish oil is also bought by the masses and it makes for a delicious and nutritious lunch if cooked with seasonal greens.

Dhaka is such an interesting city. At every corner, something remarkable is happening to be in awe of. The inspiring spirit of the city's toiling people rekindles us and we appreciate their innovative ways of surviving in this city.